Sulb Temple in Wawa and Jebel Barkal Site
We got up at 6am which felt like in the middle of the night since it was still dark. After we packed our camping equipment we walked towards the Nile in the little village of Wawa. Here we took a motorboat which brought us to the west bank of the river were we visited the Sulb Temple. In comparison to the Egyptian sites the Sudanese ones are significantly less crowded. Actually, we are always the only visitors and there are no people trying to sell us souvenirs and such. Due to the low number of visitors there is also no box office selling admission tickets but some random farmer appears requesting an entry fee which is quite pricy, e.g. 7 USD per person for the visit of the Sulb Temple excluding the boat ride. The sites in Sudan are also not too impressive, maybe because there was often no significant restoration done. What you basically see is a pile of stones and only a few pieces of the site are preserved and are kind of interesting.
After the temple visit we started driving at 9am. Our first stop at 12pm was the market in Dongola where we wanted to buy food for dinner. Since the market was closed we continued to Karima and did our shopping there. Afterward we drove to the historic site of Jebel Barkal were we arrived at 4:30pm. At this site we visited a pile of stones which used to be a temple, the “holy mountain”, a tomb and some small pyramids. The site was kind of interesting but far away from being really impressive. On the way to the small pyramids our truck got stuck in the sand but it only took 10-15 minutes to dig it out and continue driving.
Our bush camp for the night was close to the bank of the river Nile and the historic tombs of El-Kurru. Some of us took the opportunity for a swim in the river. Since Sudan is a Muslim country I needed to wear trousers and a shirt instead of a bikini. The current of the Nile is very strong and so I stayed in a distance of 2-3 meters to the beach. There was also a bunch of locals watching us and we took some time to play with the kids of the village. Dinner was some Spaghetti with tuna and baked apple with custard which we ate in a circle around the camp fire.